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Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Midnight Snacks in Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

It's 2 a.m. here in Saigon, and just 10 minutes ago, I watched four ladies show up in front of a crowded Internet cafe with two massive pots of food and about six plastic stools. Within two minutes, they had set up a makeshift restaurant in the street.

Food vendors are all over this city. If there are tables and chairs at all, they are generally made of plastic, and rising just about 12 inches off the pavement. You have to be careful not to get knee hair in your food.

Street food generally scares me after a traumatic salad attack I endured in Turkey years ago that landed me in the hospital, but Nigel, a British guy working here as an English teacher, promised me it wouldn't kill me at one particular place. And I certainly couldn't argue for the price -- a barbecued pork chop and a massive plate of steamed rice cost me 9,000 đông, which, at today's exchange rate, is 56 US cents.

If I do keel over dead and this is my last post, it is probably the pork chop's fault. Or feel free to blame Nigel. It was rather tasty, however, and I can think of much worse causes of death than tasty food.

Unless you happen to be the pork chop.

Sunday, April 06, 2008

Crossing the Line

Over the Pacific Ocean at the International Date Line

[Over the next couple of weeks as I'm traveling, some of these entries may be posted a few days after I write them, depending on when I have Internet access. The time stamps on each post reflect the time I originally wrote the messages, not the time I uploaded them. All times are listed as US Pacific Time. Hong Kong is 15 hours ahead. Vietnam is 16 hours ahead.]


Don't be fooled by the date at the top of this message. Where I am, it is already April 7.

I have just crossed the International Date Line on this arduous journey. I have been craning my neck, looking out the window, trying to see the dateline, but it's too cloudy.

Wow! I wish I could have 24-hour-long airplane journeys every day! And lucky me! This one will now be more like 27 or 28.

They had a little problem at San Francisco airport. Just as it was time to board, somebody at the airline figured out that the cabin lights and video monitors were not working on our aircraft.

Solution Part One: Make an announcement telling all of us to stand around and wait for ten more minutes, at which time they would have more information.

Solution Part Two: Repeat that announcement every ten minutes for the next three hours.

They did eventually come up with an ingenious solution. My flight – flight 569 to Hong Kong – was scheduled to depart from gate 97. Flight 857 to Beijing was scheduled to depart from gate 95. What they did was move flight 857 to gate 94, and move us to gate 95. Meanwhile, flight 900 to Frankfurt, which I think was originally scheduled to depart from gate 94, would now depart from gate 97. You do the Hokey Pokey and you turn yourself around. That's what it's all about.

Yeah, so anyway, here's the thing: For reasons known only to the wizards who make airline rules, all of this required not only gate changes, but also -- according to rumors circulating at gate 95 -- that we swap planes with the Frankfurt flight. The hope was that our original aircraft might be repaired in time for their now-delayed Frankfurt departure.

But apparently, you can't just swap a plane to Hong Kong with a plane to Frankfurt. For reasons of cultural sensitivity, meals on the two flights are different. You can't serve udon noodles on a flight to Germany, or wienerschnitzel en route to Hong Kong, It violates the Geneva Convention. Solution to that conundrum: Delay both flights more, remove the entire galleys of both airplanes and bring them over to the other plane. 

So we waited, and the announcements continued – telling us they would soon be announcing a new departure time, and to please wait in the boarding area for further instructions. Also, to allay confusion, it was announced every three minutes for several hours that if you were originally supposed to board at gate 95 to please move to gate 94, and if you were originally supposed to board at gate 94, please go to gate 97, and if you....

What they did not consider mentioning is that swapping the entire galleys between two airplanes takes a lot of time, and it would have been perfectly safe to leave the gate area for a couple of hours and go sit in a happy place, such as the bar. Instead, they kept us in suspense and made us wait at the gate.

Now, I'm all for cultural sensitivity. Really I am. But at some point, I started wondering, would it kill a few passengers from Hong Kong – passengers who had already been in the US – to eat some non-Asian food on their flight home? I'm guessing most of them would have been happy to if it would have meant avoiding a two-and-a-half hour delay.

The most quizzical part of the ordeal did not come, however, until many hours later. Ninety minutes before landing, we were served dinner. After all that, our culturally-sensitive, Asian-friendly choices were... (drum roll please...) a toasted turkey-and-cheese sandwich... or lasagna.

Dayton Airport Vending Machine

Bottled water at airports is getting more and more expensive.

080404_expensive_water


Monday, December 24, 2007

'Tis the Season of the Lutefisk People

Man... write one tongue-in-cheek article about lutefisk and you end up all over the news. In addition to my aforementioned appearance today on the History Channel, I am also quoted in the Everett Herald this morning about Norway's biggest culinary catastrophe.

If you search for lutefisk on Google, my article is now the second page to come up, just below Wikipedia. And again this holiday season, I've received a slew of e-mails from the lutefisk people -- strangers who have found me on Google and have opinions to share.

Most of the lutefisk people are nice people. Many agree with my take on the evil fish. One troubled crank, however, wrote to me a couple of weeks ago that I have no right to call myself a Norwegian-American. "I'd have a book burning (of yours)" he wrote, "but that means I'd have to buy one."

Yowch! Get a grip, dude!

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

A Sad Fact About Teenage Nutrition

Oslo, Norway

I'm sitting at an outdoor cafe when a teenage girl walks out of a candy store with a gummi-hamburger. You know... kind of like the gummi-bear candies, only she has a gummi-hamburger instead -- about an inch and a half across. The bun part is yellow, the burger part is brown, the lettuce part is green, and the tomato part is red.

The girl sits down at a table near me. She opens up the container, which vaguely resembles a McDonald's hamburger container, and -- I swear this really happened -- removes the red and green parts of the burger. She takes out the gummi-lettuce-and-tomato, and eats only the gummy-bun and the gummi-meat.

No wonder teenage obesity is a growing problem! Personal message to the youth of Norway: You must eat your gummi-vegetables as well or you are going to miss out on important gummi-vitamins and gummi-minerals!

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Where's the Beef?

Copenhagen, Denmark

Driving through rural Sweden a couple of days ago, I spotted a herd of about ten cows grazing innocently by the side of the road. This, in and of itself, was no big deal. I see roadside cows grazing all the time when traveling through Scandinavia. But on this day, something looked horribly wrong.

The cows were all grazing directly in front of a large billboard for McDonald's

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Clean Humor

Griseplakat2007_2k1_300x444 Oslo, Norway

I bought a smoothie yesterday at Deli de Luca, a Norwegian convenience store chain that puts 7-Eleven to shame. (7-Eleven invaded Norway around 15 years ago, and is now as prevalent in Oslo as Starbuck's Coffee is in Seattle.) As I was leaving the shop, I looked at a label on the side of my cup. It was an environmental message with a sense of humor. The cup said, "Love me, but leave me in the trash."

Meanwhile the Oslo city government has declared Oslo a "pig-free zone," with an ad campaign reminding residents there are more than 2,000 trash cans around the city. "Don't let the city look like a pig house," say posters around town, and movie theaters are showing a short anti-pig film before the feature presentation.

Thursday, May 17, 2007

Just Say Moo

Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland

I know you've been feeling sad lately. That cow you've dreamed of buying for so many years just isn't affordable, what with the sorry state of the US dollar against the Swiss franc and all. But cheer up. There's a solution.

Now, you can rent a cow from a Swiss farmer, and you don't even have to live in Switzerland.

Farmers in the Alps have developed a program in which you can rent one of their cows. The farmers will milk Bessie for you, turn the milk into cheese, and mail the cheese to you. Rental packages range from 255 to 425 Swiss Francs (about 210 to 350 US dollars). Packages include a certificate confirming you are the legal renter of the cow, a photo of your cow, all costs for milking, feeding, and other bovine care, and of course, the shipping of the cheese -- anywhere from two to ten kilos, depending on the package you choose. You can even come to Switzerland to visit your cow and have a picnic with it.

Don't believe me? You will find full details at www.kuhleasing.ch. (The website is in German, but drop them an e-mail in English if you are interested. I'm sure someone there can reply in English.)
 

Why would anybody want to rent a Swiss cow? For one thing, they are considered the happiest cows in the world. Why are Swiss cows the happiest cows in the world? Because they are all stoned.

Switzerland, which is not part of the European Union, has more liberal drug laws than most of Europe. Farmers here often feed cannabis to their cows... and the cows that get the cannabis typically produce more milk than their straight-laced counterparts.

The practice of cow-doping was officially banned in 2005, and boy do I wish I could have been at that session of Switzerland's Agriculture Ministry.

"I'm worried about our cows. I think it's time for an intervention."

Regardless, many farmers are not following the new rules, and agriculture officials say the THC could be finding its way into the milk.

It's times like this I really hate being lactose intolerant.

Continue reading "Just Say Moo" »

Friday, March 30, 2007

One Ear, Hold the Mustard

Four men were arrested last weekend on the Greek island of Crete after a fight over a soccer match concluded with one man biting off part of another man's ear.

According to the Associated Press, the fight erupted when a group of Bulgarians started cheering on Turkey in the match against Greece. When a Greek businessman tried to break up the fight, one of his own countrymen chomped down on his ear.

Hmmm... if this had been in America, I would have assumed the man who bit the ear off was just looking for a safe alternative to the stadium hotdogs.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

You Want it Where?!?!

Back in Norway three weeks ago, Kattina was asking me to teach her Norwegian. At the same time, I was trying to school her in the finer points of Norwegian cuisine.

Take the hot dog, for example. Norwegians have taken hot dogs to a much higher standard than we have in America. To be specific, Norwegians have created hot dogs that are actually safe to consume.

You can order your hot dog (“pølse”) one of two ways in Norway –- in a bun (“i brød”) or wrapped in a “lompe” –- Norway’s potato-based answer to the tortilla. Americans often refer to the lompe as “lefse.” A lompe is one of several varieties of lefse.

On the early part of our train/bus journey to Bergen, we were seized with the munchies. We made our way to the dining car.

“How do I ask for a hot dog in lefse?” Kattina asked me.

“En pølse i lompe,” I translated.

”En pølse i rompe?” she tried to repeat.

At that point, I fell out of my chair in an intense giggling fit. “Ummm... not rompe,” I said. “Lompe.”

“Why are you laughing?” she asked.

“Rompe means your butt.”

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